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Please e-mail us with your comments on our our web site, products, or services. If you provide us with your contact information -- name, address, telephone and fax numbers -- we will be able to reach you in case we have any questions.

Please also let us know if you would like your comments published on the web site. We would like to set up a customer forum page for anything that might usefully be passed on to others.

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Feedback Tip No 4, 20 September 2001
Blackening the Couplers

A customer has suggested using a spirit-based felt-tipped pen to blacken the couplers. This works well. Birchwood Casey Gun Blue is also effective. Despite what the instructions say, this product will blacken nickel silver but its great advantage over the Carr's nickel silver blackening solution recommended in the Dingham instructions is that it also blackens solder. Birchwood Casey Gun Blue is available from Eileen's Emporium.

Feedback Tip No 3, 14 October 2000
Recessing the Underside of Baseboards for Electromagnets

The electromagnets provide a stronger magnetic field if the pole piece extension is kept as short as possible whilst still keeping the top of the pole piece just above the sleepers. On layouts with thick baseboard tops, this can be achieved if the underside of the baseboard is recessed to accept the body of the electromagnet (the steel "box" containing the coil). This is done most easily by using a wood drill giving a flat-bottomed hole of at least 33mm diameter. The drills sold for recessing kitchen cupboard door hinges are most suitable for this job. They are easily controllable and produce a flat-bottomed hole 35mm in diameter. However, be very careful to stop drilling well before the drill penetrates right through the baseboard material! Whatever you do, don't be tempted to use the "flat-bit" type of drill -- the ones with a central spike and a flat projection with cutting angles ground on at either side. These are most uncontrollable and almost guaranteed to damage the track above the position where you are drilling. 

Feedback Tip No 2, 14 October 2000
DINGHAMS for Coupling Gangwayed Stock

Several customers have reported using the Autocouplers to replace screw couplings underneath the corridor connections of gangwayed rakes simply to overcome the difficulty of hooking-up the screw couplings  -- a notoriously frustrating task. There is, of course, no need to use the latch unless automated uncoupling is envisaged. One customer reports using Dinghams on a 14-coach rake on an outdoor layout. Another customer compresses the sprung buffers on his stock whilst coupling the Dinghams. Apparently, the coupler loops haven't bent yet in either case.

Feedback Tip No 1, 15 May 2000
An Alternative Method of Fitting Type 1 Latches

A customer in Coventry has passed on the following tip. When fitting Type 1 latches, solder the pivot wire into the hook in exactly the same way as for the hook with loop. Clean excess solder and flux off carefully, then bend the latch over the pivot wire. Next, hold the "eyes" of the latch together over the hook with a pair of tweezers and fill the tip of the latch with solder. Smooth off any excess solder from the top and bottom of the latch.

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